Inside Jiufen Old Street: Taiwan’s Most Atmospheric Hill Town

Step into Jiufen Old Street (Jiufen Laojie) in Neu-Taipeh, Taiwan, where misty hills, lantern-lit alleys, and teahouses above the Pacific turn a day trip into a cinematic memory.

On Jiufen Old Street in Neu-Taipeh, Taiwan, the air smells like grilled squid, sweet taro balls, and rain on stone. Red lanterns glow above steep stairways, tea steam fogs old wooden windows, and, from certain bends, the Pacific flashes far below. Jiufen Laojie (meaning “Jiufen Old Street” in Chinese) feels less like a shopping lane and more like a living movie set where Taiwan’s gold rush past, Japanese-era architecture, and contemporary snack culture all collide.

By Laura McIntyre · Senior Travel Writer — Laura McIntyre is a U.S.-based travel journalist who has covered Asian cities, historic districts, and cultural heritage routes for more than 15 years.
Published: May 10, 2026 · Last reviewed: May 10, 2026

Jiufen Old Street: The Iconic Landmark of Neu-Taipeh

For many American travelers, Jiufen Old Street is the image that comes to mind when they picture Taiwan beyond Taipei’s skyscrapers: a mountainside village of staircases, teahouses, and lanterns, clinging to a ridge northeast of the capital. Jiufen is technically in New Taipei City (often rendered as Neu-Taipeh in some German-language coverage), but it feels like a world apart from the glassy high-rises and metro lines of downtown.

Today, Jiufen Old Street is one of Taiwan’s most popular day-trip destinations, frequently highlighted by Taiwan’s Tourism Administration and featured in outlets such as National Geographic and CNN Travel for its atmospheric alleys and hillside views. Tour buses and small vans disgorge visitors who then fan out along the narrow, sometimes crowded lanes lined with snack stands, retro toy shops, souvenir stalls, and classic teahouses that look out over the Pacific Ocean.

What sets Jiufen Laojie apart is its mix of sensory overload and deep-rooted history. Once a gold mining town under Japanese rule, Jiufen reinvented itself in the late 20th century as a nostalgic escape from urban life. Today, you can sip oolong tea in a wooden teahouse that dates back decades, sample chewy taro ball desserts, photograph lantern-strung stairways at sunset, and then walk just a few minutes to viewpoints where cloudbanks roll in over the sea.

The History and Meaning of Jiufen Laojie

Jiufen’s story begins long before it became an Instagram favorite. According to Taiwan’s Tourism Administration and background summaries from Encyclopaedia Britannica and major international media, the Jiufen area was sparsely populated until the late Qing Dynasty in the 19th century. The name “Jiufen” is commonly explained as “nine portions” or “nine shares,” referring to nine original families in the village who would request nine portions of goods delivered to the area, though historians note this story functions partly as local folklore rather than a strictly documented origin.

The village’s fate changed dramatically in the late 1800s and early 1900s when gold was discovered in the hills of what is now Ruifang District. During the period of Japanese colonial rule over Taiwan (1895–1945), Jiufen and nearby Jinguashi became important mining centers. Japanese companies and administrators built infrastructure, including roads, tunnels, and worker housing, shaping much of the stepped, hillside layout visitors now navigate. This was Taiwan’s own gold rush, unfolding roughly a century after the California Gold Rush that many Americans learn about in school.

As gold production boomed in the early 20th century, Jiufen’s population swelled. The main thoroughfares that make up Jiufen Old Street took shape as commercial lanes serving miners and their families: narrow passages where shopfronts sold food, daily necessities, and occasional luxuries. Many of the overhanging eaves, wooden beams, and metal shutters you see today echo the mixed Chinese and Japanese influences of this period.

After World War II, Taiwan came under the control of the Republic of China government. The gold mines gradually declined in the 1950s and 1960s, and, as with many single-industry towns, Jiufen faded. Younger residents moved to Taipei for work, and the hillside village slipped into relative obscurity. For a time, Jiufen was more or less a quiet, somewhat forgotten place overlooking the sea.

Jiufen’s second life arrived through culture. In 1989, Taiwanese director Hou Hsiao-hsien released the acclaimed film “A City of Sadness,” partly set in Jiufen and exploring complex chapters of Taiwan’s postwar history. The film won the Golden Lion at the Venice Film Festival, drawing attention to Jiufen’s atmospheric setting. Taiwanese and Japanese visitors began coming specifically to walk the village’s lanes, sparking a slow but steady revival that Taiwan’s tourism authorities later amplified.

In the 2000s, international media coverage—and the booming popularity of East Asian pop culture—cemented Jiufen Laojie as a regional icon. Some fans observed visual similarities between Jiufen’s lantern-lit steps and scenes in Hayao Miyazaki’s animated film “Spirited Away.” Studio Ghibli has never officially confirmed Jiufen as an inspiration, and Japanese animators often draw from many sources, but the visual overlap became part of Jiufen’s pop-culture aura. Guidebooks, including Lonely Planet’s Taiwan titles and features in outlets like CNN Travel, began recommending Jiufen as a must-visit near Taipei.

Today, Jiufen Old Street stands at a crossroads of heritage and tourism. While it is not listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site, the village features in heritage and cultural route discussions by Taiwan’s Ministry of Culture and local cultural groups. The challenge, as urban planners and cultural experts often note, is balancing preservation of the original streetscape with the demands of mass tourism.

Architecture, Art, and Notable Features

Architecturally, Jiufen Old Street is less about a single monumental building and more about a dense, layered streetscape. According to analyses by architectural critics in Taiwanese heritage publications and coverage by National Geographic, Jiufen’s built environment is defined by three main elements: its terraced hillside setting, its mixed Japanese and southern Chinese architectural vocabulary, and its intimate, covered alleyways.

The village clings to steep slopes above the northeastern coast of Taiwan, roughly 20–25 miles (about 32–40 km) from central Taipei in driving distance. Buildings are stacked almost on top of one another, with stairways acting as the main circulation routes. Rather than a grid, you move vertically and diagonally—up stone steps, along narrow lanes, then either up again or down to another terrace. For American visitors used to wider streets, the tightness of these alleys can be striking, especially at peak hours.

Many shopfronts on Jiufen Laojie retain wooden beams, tiled roofs, and sliding doors that reflect early 20th-century construction techniques. You will notice Japanese-style elements such as simple wooden facades and shoji-like windows in some older teahouses, alongside more traditional southern Chinese motifs like red lanterns, calligraphy signboards, and decorative tiled thresholds. This hybrid aesthetic tells the story of Jiufen’s Japanese colonial period layered onto a Taiwanese cultural base.

One of the most photographed buildings along the main stairway is a multi-level teahouse draped in red lanterns and climbing ivy, often used in tourism campaigns by the New Taipei City Government. While individual venues may change over time, the typology is consistent: wooden interiors, low tables by windows, tatami corners in some rooms, and balconies projecting over the hillside. Sitting here with a pot of high-mountain oolong or tieguanyin tea, you can watch clouds drift across the Pacific and the lights of neighboring Keelung flicker on at dusk.

Food is itself an art form along Jiufen Old Street. Many stalls specialize in a single dish, perfecting it over years. Among the snacks frequently highlighted by Taiwan’s Tourism Administration and travel editors at outlets like AFAR and Condé Nast Traveler are:

• Taro ball dessert (yu yuan): chewy taro and sweet potato balls, often served in a bowl with sweet soup or over ice.
• Fish balls: bouncy fish cakes in broth, a classic Taiwanese comfort food.
• Herbal rice cakes and mugwort cakes: green-tinted, slightly chewy pastries made with glutinous rice flour and herbs.
• Peanut ice cream spring rolls: ice cream and shaved peanut brittle wrapped in a thin crepe, sometimes garnished with cilantro.

As you walk, signs call out these specialties in both Chinese and English, reflecting the international mix of visitors. The visual language—steam rising from bamboo baskets, glowing signs with stylized characters, plastic stools arranged around low tables—is instantly recognizable to travelers familiar with East Asian street food culture, yet distinctively Taiwanese in its flavors and ingredients.

Beyond food, Jiufen Laojie also hosts small shops selling retro toys, handmade crafts, and vintage memorabilia, including items that reference the mining era and mid-20th-century Taiwan. According to interviews with shopkeepers cited in local cultural magazines, some stores deliberately curate nostalgia, stocking enamel mugs, old movie posters, and 1980s-style snacks to evoke childhood memories for Taiwanese visitors.

Art and culture continue in the surrounding area. While technically outside the main Old Street, nearby Jinguashi is home to the Gold Museum (operated by the New Taipei City Government), which preserves mining heritage through exhibits, preserved tunnels, and Japanese-era buildings. Many guided tours from Taipei pair Jiufen Old Street with this museum, giving visitors context for the streets they just walked. Heritage experts in Taiwan often encourage this combination, arguing that Jiufen’s charm makes the strongest impression when linked to its mining past.

Visiting Jiufen Old Street: What American Travelers Should Know

For U.S. travelers, Jiufen Old Street is typically a day trip or half-day excursion from Taipei rather than an overnight base, although a few guesthouses and small inns operate in and around the village. The key is understanding transportation, crowds, and practical realities before you go.

• Location and how to get there: Jiufen is in Ruifang District of New Taipei City, northeast of central Taipei. From the city center, it is roughly an hour to 90 minutes by a combination of train and bus, or around 45–60 minutes by car in light traffic. A common option, recommended by both the Taiwan Tourism Administration and major guide publishers, is to take a Taiwan Railways Administration (TRA) local train from Taipei Main Station to Ruifang Station, then transfer to a local bus or taxi for the final uphill stretch to Jiufen Old Street. Many travelers also use direct tourist buses or join small-group tours that link Jiufen with Shifen Old Street and Yehliu Geopark.
• Access from U.S. hubs: There are no nonstop flights from the U.S. directly to Jiufen, but Taiwan Taoyuan International Airport outside Taipei is accessible from major U.S. gateways such as Los Angeles (LAX), San Francisco (SFO), Seattle (SEA), New York (JFK), and others via nonstop or one-stop routes, depending on airline schedules. Flight times from the U.S. West Coast to Taipei are typically in the 13–14 hour range, while East Coast routes often take 15–17 hours with a connection. From Taoyuan Airport, you can reach central Taipei via airport MRT or bus, then continue by train or tour to Jiufen.
• Hours: Jiufen Old Street is a public area rather than a gated attraction. Many shops and food stalls generally open from late morning into the evening. Some teahouses and snack shops are particularly atmospheric at dusk and after dark when lanterns are lit. Hours may vary — check directly with Jiufen Old Street businesses or with current information provided by the New Taipei City tourism website before planning a late visit.
• Admission: There is no overall entrance fee to walk Jiufen Old Street. You pay individually for food, drinks, souvenirs, and any museum or teahouse experiences you choose. Tea sets at teahouses can range from modest to premium pricing depending on tea quality and view; exact prices vary and may change, so it is best to check menus or ask staff on-site. Keep in mind that exchange rates fluctuate when converting New Taiwan dollar (TWD) prices into U.S. dollars (USD).
• Best time to visit: Taiwan has a subtropical climate, and Jiufen’s hilltop location means it can be misty and damp, particularly in winter and early spring. Many experienced travelers and local tourism officials suggest visiting on weekdays and aiming for late afternoon into evening: you can see the daytime views, then watch the lanterns glow after sunset. Weekends and national holidays, especially during summer and around Lunar New Year, can be extremely crowded, with narrow corridors becoming congested. Carrying a small umbrella or lightweight rain jacket is wise year-round.
• Practical tips: language, payments, tipping, and mobility: Mandarin Chinese and Taiwanese (Hokkien) are widely spoken. In a popular tourist area like Jiufen Laojie, many vendors know basic English phrases, and menus may be bilingual, but English fluency varies. Credit cards are accepted at some teahouses and larger shops, but many snack stalls remain cash-only. It is smart to carry enough New Taiwan dollars for snacks and small purchases. Tipping is not customary at small eateries or street stalls in Taiwan; higher-end restaurants may add a service charge, but in most casual contexts you simply pay the bill. Mobility-wise, Jiufen is challenging: visitors must tackle steep stairs, uneven stone paths, and occasional slippery surfaces when it rains. Travelers with limited mobility should be cautious and may wish to focus on accessible viewpoints near the main bus stops rather than attempting the full stairway network.
• Safety and weather: Jiufen is generally considered safe, with local police and tourism authorities maintaining a visible presence during peak times. As with any crowded area, keep an eye on your belongings. Weather can change quickly; fog and drizzle are common. During Taiwan’s typhoon season, typically summer into early fall, authorities may issue advisories or temporarily suspend transportation in affected areas. Always monitor local news and heed official guidance.
• Entry requirements: Entry policies for Taiwan can change. U.S. citizens should check current entry requirements, visa rules, and any health-related advisories at travel.state.gov and via Taiwan’s official immigration and tourism websites before booking travel.
• Time zones: Taiwan generally operates on Taiwan Standard Time, which is 12 or 13 hours ahead of Eastern Time and 15 or 16 hours ahead of Pacific Time, depending on daylight saving time in the United States (Taiwan does not observe daylight saving time). Factor this into jet lag planning and communication with home.

Why Jiufen Laojie Belongs on Every Neu-Taipeh Itinerary

What makes Jiufen Old Street resonate so strongly with American visitors is not just its photogenic lanterns but its sense of narrative. This is a place where you can trace Taiwan’s transition from Qing-era outpost to Japanese colony, to industrial town, to postindustrial cultural destination—all within the span of a short walk.

For travelers based in Taipei, Jiufen serves as an accessible entry point into northern Taiwan’s broader landscape. Many itineraries, including those suggested by Taiwan’s Tourism Administration, pair Jiufen with Shifen Old Street (famous for sky lanterns along a railway line), the dramatic sea-eroded formations of Yehliu Geopark, or the mining history exhibits in Jinguashi. This combination offers a compact survey of Taiwan’s natural scenery, industrial past, and contemporary culture in a single day.

Emotionally, Jiufen Laojie brings something different to a Taiwan trip than Taipei’s excellent night markets or the National Palace Museum’s imperial art collections. Here, you experience small-scale, lived-in heritage: families running snack stalls, elderly residents chatting on stoops, teenagers photographing each other beneath lantern strings. The views over the Pacific remind many visitors of California’s coastal mountains, yet the density of alleyways and the overlay of Chinese and Japanese influences make it unmistakably East Asian.

American travelers often describe the experience as “cinematic.” There is a sense of arriving on set: you walk into a frame of mist, neon-like lantern glow, and steep staircases, then improvise your own storyline—maybe a tea ceremony overlooking the sea, maybe a rainstorm that sends you diving into a dessert shop, maybe a quiet moment in a side alley where the crowds fade and only wind and distant temple bells remain.

From a cultural perspective, visiting Jiufen can deepen your understanding of contemporary Taiwan. The village’s revival through film, nostalgia, and domestic tourism mirrors broader trends across the island, where communities repurpose industrial structures and historic districts into creative and tourism hubs. Urban sociologists and cultural scholars in Taiwan have pointed to Jiufen as a case study in how place branding and memory can transform a declining town into a thriving destination—while also raising questions about gentrification, visitor management, and environmental impact.

For U.S. visitors planning a first or second trip to Taiwan, building a day around Jiufen Old Street offers both scenic payoff and cultural texture. It’s the kind of place that lingers: you may not remember every snack you tried, but you will remember the feeling of standing on a balcony, warm tea in hand, watching fog roll across a hillside village lit by a thousand small red lights.

Jiufen Old Street on Social Media: Reactions, Trends, and Impressions

On social platforms, Jiufen Laojie has become a visual shorthand for “dreamy Taiwan,” with travel vloggers, photographers, and casual visitors sharing everything from cinematic drone shots to close-ups of searing scallion pancakes. For Americans planning a trip, browsing these posts can help set expectations: you’ll see not only postcard-worthy images but also candid clips of crowds, rainstorms, and the occasionally chaotic bus departure line.

Frequently Asked Questions About Jiufen Old Street

Where is Jiufen Old Street, and how far is it from Taipei?

Jiufen Old Street is in Ruifang District of New Taipei City (often rendered as Neu-Taipeh in some European coverage), on Taiwan’s northeastern coast. It sits in the hills above the ocean, roughly 20–25 miles (about 32–40 km) from central Taipei. Travel time from downtown Taipei is usually around one to one and a half hours, depending on whether you take a combination of train and bus, a direct tourist coach, or a private transfer.

What is special about Jiufen Laojie compared with other streets in Taiwan?

Jiufen Laojie is special because it combines dramatic hillside scenery, a compact historic streetscape, and a powerful cultural story. The village grew during Taiwan’s gold mining boom under Japanese rule, then declined when the mines closed, and later revived through film and tourism. Walking its narrow alleys and stairways, you see layered architecture, taste classic Taiwanese snacks, and enjoy sweeping views over the Pacific—all in a setting that feels distinctly cinematic.

Is Jiufen Old Street suitable for travelers with limited mobility?

Jiufen Old Street can be challenging for travelers with limited mobility. The main attractions involve steep staircases, uneven stone steps, and narrow, sometimes crowded passageways. There are some flat sections near the bus stops and parking areas where you can enjoy views and a few shops without tackling many stairs, but fully exploring the Old Street typically requires good balance and stamina. If mobility is a concern, consider planning a shorter visit, using walking aids if needed, and traveling with a companion.

When is the best time of day and year to visit Jiufen?

Many visitors prefer late afternoon into evening, arriving early enough to see the surrounding hills and coastline in daylight, then staying as the lanterns light up after sunset. Weekdays tend to be less crowded than weekends and public holidays. Weather-wise, Jiufen can be cool, damp, and foggy in winter and early spring, while summers are warm and more humid. Typhoons can affect northern Taiwan in summer and early fall, so it is wise to monitor forecasts and official advisories if you are traveling in that season.

Do I need to join a tour, or can I visit Jiufen Laojie independently?

You can do either. Many American travelers visit Jiufen Laojie independently using Taiwan’s efficient public transport: train from Taipei to Ruifang, then local bus or taxi up to the village. Others prefer small-group tours or private drivers, which can be convenient if you want to combine Jiufen with Shifen Old Street, Shifen Waterfall, Yehliu Geopark, or other regional sights without worrying about connections. Both approaches are common and supported by local infrastructure.

More Coverage of Jiufen Old Street on AD HOC NEWS